Here is a pretty little wildflower which I planted from bare root stock years ago. It has been ticking away in a quiet corner of the shade garden, never really making much of itself until this year, it suddenly made itself known in the most stylish way. A big tree back there lost an overhanging branch, so perhaps the increased sunshine last summer set the roots up with extra energy for this super-bloom?
Bloodroot--prettiest season yet!
The original patch self-seeded (by ants!) or perhaps spread from underground rhizomes to show up as several different patches, evidently blooming in succession: the mother patch blooms first, and the daughter colonies afterwards, in order of geographical spread. Interesting.
Mother colony blooms first (and best!)
Also interesting their semi-double appearance, although the original rootstock was sold as a single. (And, the smaller daughter colonies are still singles!)
There are more fully-double bloodroots, ("multiplex" is the variety name) but I think the one I have is the perfect intermediary: a fully double wildflower doesn't seem very "wild."
Semi double
In a time of trial, the natural rhythms of the world are a comfort.
I find that with garden helpers, the most important predictor of success is their experience of being outdoors for extended periods of time. Otherwise willing and able persons--strong, fit, environmentally conscious, friendly--don't succeed if they aren't used to being outside.
Outside is a state of mind as much as a different environment. Obviously, it's hotter, colder, more variable. There are creeping bugs and flying bugs. The angle of the light changes over the course of a day. It's wet. It's dusty. There's lots of air--moving, usually: you're often in a draft of some kind. It's super-bright, MUCH brighter than any indoor environment. It's so bright that focusing on white (a newspaper or a book, or someone's white shirt) actually hurts. People who work outdoors all the time have permanent squints, even if they habitually wear sunglasses.
If you're not used to it, this constant assault of the environment on the body is quite wearing. You get messages (cold! itchy! drafty!) from your skin, messages you don't get indoors, and this is distracting, at least initially. Yet, you get used to it, and even get to like it.
Every spring, I have to go through the process of getting assimilated again. By summertime, I can stay outdoors a long time, and by fall, I can stand around outside in a short sleeved shirt in the shade, while others have already broken out the sweaters and jackets. The stimulus of skin-delivered messages has become pleasant, and putting on long sleeves and shoes feels muffled-up--something's missing.
Yet, while I can stay outside more than most people I know, I'm not REALLY an outdoorsperson. I am pampered, cosseted, can go indoors whenever I please. Too hot, damp, buggy? I'm gone. I tell myself that I like to be outdoors, but that is partly because I know I can always retreat to warmth (or coolth!). Still air is mine to command, as is light not searingly bright.
This is rather different that those who work outside with no such retreat. Concrete workers, carpenters, utility workers--these people work outside all the time, regardless of the conditions, and they are as much tougher than me, as I am to people who never go outside at all.
After a several years acquaintence in which I never heard a single complaint, I asked my carpenter once whether he ever complained. He said "doesn't do any good, does it?" A neighbor who works concrete keeps his house at 60 degrees all winter, and colder at night--that's plenty warm enough for him, even at rest, but I would huddle and shiver through the winter at those indoor temperatures.
I think true outdoor workers look down on the rest of us as wimps, and they're right. By comparison, we are, most hobby gardeners included ( yes, even if we think secretly to ourselves how outdoor-hardy we are).
Let us suppose that for some reason (cough, Covid-19, cough) you suddenly feel you need to put in a vegetable garden in a hurry. What would you plant, and how would you do it?
USDA and EXTENSION
First things first: for decades, your tax dollars have been very well spent on several agricultural services, both federal and state. The federal service has mapped out the entire United States by soil type and also by climate growing zone. An associated state service called "extension" brings the latest in agricultural research to farmers, gardeners and the public. Your state extension service also has just an amazing amount of information about vegetable growing, varieties good for your area, information about the kinds of diseases to look out for, planting calendars for your region, almanacs and so on. In your browser window, search for "YOUR STATE extension vegetable gardening." If your particular state extension website doesn't have exactly what you're looking for, search a neighboring state's extension. Extension's website is set up differently in each state, but it is always free and has endless info.
WHAT TO GROW? --Pretty good choices
Some crops just give you more bang for your buck. The easiest food to grow for calories, meaning, the biggest bang per square foot of garden bed are potatoes, followed by winter squash (especially if the squash grows up a trellis). Beans and peas are high in protein, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers are good stomach-fillers. Squash, beans, peas, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers will all do well in an emergency garden of the type I'm talking about here.
--Somewhat iffy choices
Cabbage can last a long time in storage, but you have to actually like cabbage enough to eat it, plus cabbage likes it cool. Leafy greens like spinach are good for vitamins, but contain few calories and also need cool weather: a bit of summer heat and they "bolt" (go to seed, no longer good for eating). Broccoli and kale like it cool, also: in many places, kale is grown as a fall crop. In my experience, the hardiest greens in all weather conditions are collard greens.
--maybe wait til next year
Carrots have a lot of vitamins and store well, but require a well prepared garden bed in which to grow--not really suitable for emergency gardening, frankly. Corn is delicious, but takes up way too much space in an emergency garden for far too little return, food-wise.
EMERGENCY GARDEN BEDS (yes, it can be done)
If you want a crop this year, and you're starting with a lawn, then IMHO, you really are too far into the season to prepare a proper garden bed. Bed prep was best done last summer or fall. OTOH, spring is the best time to discover the need for an emergency garden, because the whole growing season still lies ahead. Despite not having prepared a growing bed last year, you can get a crop this growing season with a trick I've often used called no-till gardening.
NO-TILL GARDENING
No-till does mean you're not digging up a big patch in the middle of the lawn. But, no-till doesn't mean "no work." You still have to do some digging, just much less than you would do by conventional methods. The no-till trick shown in this post also reduces your weeding very substantially but beware: weeds are tricky customers, and no garden ever invented did not need some weeding.
This blog has shown a different method of no-till gardening, that variation was for putting in a "living path" with no need to first till up the ground under the path. Today's post shows the specific variation I would use (am using!) for putting in an emergency veggie garden without a whole lot of shoveling, weeding and the like. This trick is good for above-ground crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash. It is not good (this year anyhow) for below-ground crops like potatoes, beets or carrots.
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AN INTERLUDE ABOUT POTATOES
I'm only going to talk about growing crops above ground, but if you want to grow no-till potatoes, here is a very good trick you might like to try laid out in a post (not mine). I have not used this exact method, but have used one very like it and it worked well. Hint: you need so more mulch than you can possibly imagine to keep going with the system shown at the link, so save those leaves and grass clippings n a corner somewhere.
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SETTING UP A NO-TILL PLOT FOR ABOVE-GROUND VEGGIES --Prerequisites
1.
If there's weed-killer on your lawn vegetable plants may not live: residual weed-killer will kill pretty much anything that isn't grass. So, if you have a wild corner where the clover grows into the grass, dandelions shoot and weeds luxuriate, that is the place to choose, but...
2.
You have to have sunlight. You can't grow vegetables under a tree. Hostas, yes. Tomatoes, no. How much sunlight? A lot. A half-day of sun won't really be enough. Look where your green-thumb neighbors grow roses and annual flower beds (zinnias, geraniums). That's the kind of sun-exposure you need to grow vegetables.
--Materials
You will need
--CARDBOARD (or LOTS of newspaper) This holds the weeds down, kills the grass and makes the garden "no-till"
--OPTIONAL: some 4x4's or other edging material
--LEAVES or other dry organic material without seeds in it
--TIME and a TARP
--A KNIFE and a SHOVEL (for making the planting holes)
--A LITTLE HAND-SHOVEL (trowel) for preparing the ground
--STARTER PLANTS or SEEDS
--FERTILIZER
--Process
Step 1: CARDBOARD or NEWSPAPER
Lay onto your lawn some large pieces of corrugated cardboard. Appliances or sofas come in large cardboard, but it you have no such large pieces, get what you can and spread it out, overlapping, on the lawn. Avoid waxed corrugated such as banana- and broccoli-boxes. If you have a huge stack of newspapers, these can be used instead, overlapping the sections. Pro tip: if using newspaper, get a bucket of water and dunk the newspaper sections in water before you lay them, so they don't disappear into the wind. And by sections, I mean a section of newspapers minimum 6-10 sheets thick, overlapped by 25% all around. single sheets laid next to one another accomplish nothing.
Step 2: OPTIONAL EDGING
If you have some 4x4's laying around (untreated is best near food) or even some 2x2;s, build a rough framework which goes around the edge of the cardboard. This edge gives you something to mow or trim against, and helps keep running invaders (like grass stolons) out of the bed. Edging also helps keep in the leaves (next step). If you have no lumber then you can use bricks, concrete blocks, plastic lawn edging, whatever you have. Pro tip: If using edging, measure up what shape your edging will make (how you lay our your lumber) before laying out the cardboard, so the two match up. It's easier to lay cardboard out in the right shape than it is to saw up edging.
If you have nothing to edge with, then as the old folks said "you have no problems, just more work." You can still grow by this method, but you are going to have to do more maintenance to keep the weeds and grass from creeping into the bed, and to keep the leaves from blowing out.
Step 3: LEAVES
Pile on those leaves.
Here is a photo of a 4x8 bed after steps 1, 2 and 3. The last load of leaves went onto this bed a few days ago, as we finished our lawn clean-up here in southern Wisconsin (zone 5). The edging is 4x4 cedar left laying around after a different project.
New wood-edged no-till bed under construction. Note that the stone-edged bed in the upper left corner is a permanent rhubarb bed
Step 4: TIME and a TARP
Now you have to wait for it to rain. Or, you have to drag the hose out and water the bejabbers out of the pile/patch. Once it is really, really wet, lay the tarp over the whole mess, weigh down the tarp-edges and a big weight in the middle, then stand back and let everything rot under there.
Here is a photo of the same bed with the tarp on.
New no-till bed "solarizing." The tarps were put on the leaves after a rainstorm
How long to wait depends on your patience and what you plan to plant: different plants go into the ground at different times. I am in Wisconsin, where the planting season for squash (direct seeded) would be in mid-May. I intend to let my pile stew under its tarp until then. Note that when it rains, I'll run out and pull the tarp off to let the pile get wet again, then re-cover when the rain stops.
Under the tarp, the pile of leaves will start to rot. The sun will heat up the whole thing (called "solarizing"). When the pile is truly wet and the day truly sunny, the pile will literally steam when the tarp is removed.
Step 5: A KNIFE and a SHOVEL
No matter how wet and hot it gets, the cardboard under the pile will actually be pretty hard to force a shovel through, even if the pile has rotted nicely. The cardboard will take up to a year to rot, and you'll still find fragments after two years. The cardboard is your weed-barrier, so this is all as it should be. However, since you need to plant through the cardboard, this is where the knife comes in handy. A sharp vegetable knife, a garden knife, an exacto blade: any kind of knife, although the cardboard will dull the blade.
So, shove the leaves out of the way (maybe heap them on a corner of the tarp for the time being) and make a hole about one foot square. Dig into the hole with the shovel, as deep as you can. Because you're constrained by the size of the hole, you may not able to get your shovel down very far, at least not at first. However, persevere: if the shovel is having a hard time penetrating the ground, think how hard it would be for plant roots to do the same.
STEP 6: TROWEL
After you have the soil dug up some, crouch down on the ground and work your hole as best as possible with the trowel. You are trying to stir up the ground to a good "tilth," meaning, it has nice, even finish without too many clods. Therefore, remove the yellowing grass clumps, any rocks you encounter etc., and do not return that stuff to the hole. As you make the ground nicer with the trowel, you can dig around again the with shovel, also. As you go back and forth between the trowel and the shovel, you will find that you can make the hole deeper and deeper, and the soil nicer and nicer. You might want to dig some of the soil out of the hole and lay it on a different corner of the tarp for the time being, so you can get further into the hole with the shovel.
Note that when you first uncover your hole, the soil may be wet, in which case, you have to let the soil dry out before you start shoveling or troweling. Digging around in wet soil is a bad idea for your soil structure. This means that between first using the knife to uncover the hole, and the time you have worked your soil to a good tilth and loosened the soil significantly, a week might have passed, where you are working the soil a little bit more every day as it gets dryer and looser and nicer.
Another important point: The unworked soil on the sides of your hole will trap the roots and make them grow round-and-round as if they were growing in a flower-pot. This is because the ground around the hole has not been loosened. Therefore, shove the shovel into the sides of the hole and "crack" the surrounding soil: you need not dig it, just force cracks all around the side of your hole so the plant roots can get out and roam around in the soil under the cardboard. If you have a long pry bar, that's a good tool, too, for cracking the planting-hole sides.
You may think you're doing your plant a kindness to work some nice amendments out of a bag into the hole--some potting soil or perhaps, some nice compost. The problem is, plant roots prefer not to cross a soil discontinuity. This means, when there are different kinds of soil in a layer-cake type arrangement, the plant roots prefer not to travel across the layers. Therefore, do not layer-in your soil amendments, but instead work them in so they smoothly grade into the native soil, less amendments towards the bottom and sides of the hole, more toward the top and center, but always with some portion of native soil mixed in.
Note also that the amount of soil which came out of your hole will magically be far too much to put back in. This is because digging the soil fluffs it up to a greater volume than it was before. The solution is to heap the soil up a bit, letting it spill over the edges of the cardboard hole. Just make sure your plant is centered in the hole, not over the cardboard.
Step 7: STARTER PLANTS vs. SEEDS
--Starter plants
Tomatoes, peppers or eggplants are all actually tropical plants. This means, they need warm, settled weather to germinate, so unless you live in a warm climate, it isn't really practical to direct-seed these. These plants are usually started many weeks before the average frost-free date. Starting seeds in the house can certainly be done, but unless you have a sterile grow-medium and an actual plant light, then no matter what Pinterest says, the plants you start in the house are going to be spindly, diseased elongated things unlikely to thrive very well out in the garden.
If tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are your aim to grow, and you are a first-time gardener, then IMHO, it is going to be worthwhile to track down some starter plants a.k.a. seedlings. This means, little plants in a 4- or 6-pack like the kinds sold at the local garden center. Our local garden center is shut down so you can't go inside, but they are doing curb-side pick up, and have indicated that they will be selling starter veggie plants. Big-box lumber yards often have a garden section, and these stores are still open as being "essential." Drive-through farmer's markets are starting to be a thing, and some sell vegetable starts. Some outfits will sell starter plants by mail. Phone your local greenhouse and ask: many of them geared up to produce their veggie starts for sale long before Covid was on their radar, so they do have the plants, it's just a question of how to get them. However you obtain them, though, if you are a first time gardener, and these "tropicals" are your aim to grow, starter plants will tilt the balance in favor of your growing a fine crop.
--Direct seeded
If you want to grow beans (pole beans will give you more crop per square foot of garden) or squash (winter storage or summer green-types), or cucumbers, or even peas, these can be direct-seeded and will still give you a crop all the way up to zone 4 (which means, pretty far north in the USA!)
--Varieties
As to varieties of vegetables, heirloom organic are delicious and have a halo reputation. However, despite 30+ years gardening experience, I've had more crop failures with heirloom veggies than any other kind. The reality is, a hybrid plant with built-in disease resistance is less likely to disappoint and more likely to provide satisfaction in getting an actual harvest. Luckily, most starter plants are precisely these kinds of hybrids. Also luckily, what's for sale in your area is likely to be a variety which will grow well for you.
Step 8: PLANTING
--"Hardening" starter plants
The first thing is, you want your starter plants to get used to your weather. If your plants were acclimatized (called "hardened off") by the grower, you have no problems. If they came out of a greenhouse, then you must harden them off yourself. Here's how: once you get past the last frost free date for your growing region (consult your state extension) leave your starter plants outside during the day, and bring them in at night for a couple of days before you commit them to the ground. The amount of soil in a starter-pack is so very little that the plants can easily dry out: even if you keep them watered, direct sun would possibly dry them out too much. Therefore, not only must you keep them watered, but also stand them in light shade, not full sun. After a few days, leave them outside even overnight, but close to the house, which is a slightly warmer place than the open garden. Once your plants are hardened off, then plant them out.
--Planting out
For tomatoes, get some of the stem into the ground. The below video shows how. Do not be discouraged by comparing the endless loose soil in the video to your little hole of loosened soil, the point is to plant the tomato plant as deeply into the ground as your particular soil will allow. Roots will form all along the stem, anchoring the plants better to the ground and gathering more nutrients for bigger, better fruit.
For other kinds of starts, plant them the same depth as they were in the pot. Below is a little video showing how: it's child's play! Again, however, do not be discouraged by comparing the soil in this raised bed with your little hole. If you have followed along as stated above, the soil right in your planting hole is loose enough to grow a nice crop. Also note that this video shows planting lettuce, but the theory is the same for all non-tomato crops.
The leaves you piled on top of your cardboard may want to cascade down and bury your little starter-plants, so set a ring of something around them: a can opened at both ends, or a rose ring, or even a collar of cardboard cut from a box.
--Planting from seeds (direct seeding in the garden)
Many plants traditionally recommended for direct seeding (seeds go into the ground where the plants will grow) have large seeds: beans, peas, squash, cukes. This makes it easier to see what you're doing. For beans and peas, try to buy some "inoculant" with which to coat the seed before planting: this gives the seeds a head-start on gathering nutrients by adding beneficial bacteria to the soil.
I, personally, soak bean and pea seed for 12 hours before planting, but not cucumber or squash seed. The seed packet tells you how deep to plant the seeds, and extension will tell you the spacing for your area. It might be best to put several seeds into each planting hole, but thin to one if and when they all come up. It feels like murder to cut down seedlings (cut--don't pull, or you'll disturb the roots of all the seedlings). Yet, that's the gardener's life because one good plant will give you more than twice as much produce as two scraggly ones. The extras were your insurance policy to be sure at least something comes up in each of the holes.
LAST STEP: FERTILIZER
Your garden plants need nutrients. The soil already contains a good deal of what they need, but they'll almost certainly need more to make a good crop, especially if they're growing in what used to be a lawn. Concentrated organic fertilizers such as blood meal, bone meal and green sand certainly exist, but you might have a hard time finding them. Further, blood meal and bone meal are an invitation to dogs, cats, raccoons to dig everything up looking what their nose tells them is the corpse of an decomposing animal. A less-concentrated organic input, in the form of compost, is an excellent solution, but takes time.
For an emergency garden, a balanced artificial fertilizer would work quickest and most reliably: Miracle-Gro is a well-known brand which will certainly give you lovely tomatoes, but...just because a little is good doesn't mean a lot is better. Synthetic fertilizer is very powerful and concentrated. Use too much and you interfere with natural soil processes so you get the opposite effect from what you want. Your soil gets hard and un-fertile from over-fertilization. I would use Miracle-Gro at half the recommended strength: unless you're gardening sand, that will give you quite a good crop. Also, leave that bag of lawn fertilizer alone: that is not a balanced plant food, and worse yet, it might be mixed with herbicide (weed-killer, which is also vegetable-killer!)
A FINAL THOUGHT: why the leaves?
Do you wonder why the leaves were necessary when the cardboard was already laid to kill the grass and keep the weeds under control? First, it's for a mechanical reason: the leaves protect the cardboard, the cardboard protects the roots and suppresses the weeds. But beyond that, the leaves will eventually improve soil structure and fertility. To explain...
Cardboard in the sun would heat up, and would heat the plant roots also. Further, sunlight would soon disintegrate the cardboard itself. But the leaves not only protect the cardboard from the sun, they do even more: they keep the soil under the cardboard cool and damp. Cool damp soil eventually becomes loose soil without your having to do anything at all.
You see, although this is a no-till method, in reality, the soil is being tilled all the time, just not by you. Earthworms and other ground-dwelling beasties turn over enormous amounts of soil, and they prefer cooler, damper conditions for their work. As the cardboard becomes softer, they will actually start churning both it and the leaves into the soil. Without any particular work on your part, the cardboard and the leaves will become enriched garden soil: even by the end of this summer you will see the process get a good start. In technical terms, you are "sheet composting" on top of the soil, and the compost thus created will become part of the soil. You can keep the compost on top of the soil topped up: it's a great place for grass clippings, as long as the grass doesn't have weed killer on it, or weed seeds in it. One caveat: grass clippings give off a lot of heat as they rot, so keep them from touching your actual plants. Also, stir the grass clippings into the leaf-layer: this helps both layers break down faster.
The sheet compost on your bed isn't a great place for kitchen waste or for garden waste, however--animals will dig around to get at your moldy bread, potato peels and that 2-foot zucchini which inexplicably escaped your attention, although you looked under the leaves of the plant every day. Sheet composting is for "sterile" (no weed seeds) bulk materials like leaves and grass clippings. A separate compost pile is best for kitchen and garden waste.
The organically enriched soil resulting from sheet composting of bulk materials is most fertile and grows excellent crops. It's a win-win. If you need (or want!) to keep gardening in future years, you will be way ahead--this year's patch will be much more all-purpose next year, suitable even for root crops such as beets and carrots. And, when this horrible plague is over, and you no longer feel the need of an emergency garden, you will have a souvenir of this time: a wonderfully green patch of lawn where your no-till garden bed lay in 2020 (that horrible year).
1. Dinner
Sometimes the most beautiful effects in a garden are completely unplanned. Here's tonight's supper I collected. All the regular vegetable-collecting buckets were in use here and there so I grabbed an empty bowl-shaped planter to fetch in these tomatoes, broccoli and beets, together with a cucumber and a few errant green beans.
dinner
2. Volunteers
Here's another accidental beauty--a Jimson weed (Devil's trumpet) in my compost pile. The seeds have been waiting in the compost pile for at least three years, because that's the last time I grew this plant around here. Earlier this summer, I shifted the pile to get at some of the older compost at the bottom, which must have exposed the seeds. Within a week of being exposed, the seeds came to life and the baby plants took off. These are perhaps eight or ten weeks old, they really exploded in the compost. This is three plants, only.
The blooms open in the afternoon, then die by mid-morning of the next day. However, a new crop of blooms is waiting, as you see here, to open that afternoon. This photo was taken in the early afternoon when the dead flowers are still on the plant (you can see them drooping) and the new flowers have not yet opened for the afternoon. They look and act like giant morning glories, only they don't climb and their period of blooming in the day is different. The flowers have the same elegant trumpet shapes, although the Jimson weed's are far, far bigger.
3. Nature's flower arrangement
We deadheaded the hostas and the cardinal flowers today. Several clematis vines were trimmed back last week (It had to be done because of some construction: this is not the usual time of year to prune clematis.) Combine these with some immortal oak leaves from last winter, and you get a perfectly beautiful composition of colors and textures--prettier than any flower arrangement I've ever made on purpose.
nature's flower arrangement
--TK
PS: Not all the beauty is accidental. Here is an autumnal composition planted on purpose--Black eyed Susans with Perennial Dusty Miller. A few cardinal flowers show in the background, together with the daisy-like flowers of a Ligualaria. This is a view from the top of the mound which surrounds the bog-garden: the Ligularia and Cardinal flower are down in the bog, the Black eyed Susans and Dusty Miller are on the dry upland portion.
I got started earlier on the garden than usual, worked in the cold more, got the mulch down earlier (120 bags of cocoa hulls bought and applied, 100 bags of bark mulch of which 60 have been applied so far) deadheaded last year's leftovers (we leave the seedheads on for the winter birds). The 21 photos below show the results. Now you know why TK is not knitting.
Click on any photo to get into full-screen mode, then use the L and R arrows on your keyboard to navigate. Click in the black space outside the photo to escape full-screen mode.
Virginia Bluebells
hens and chicks
fern pavement
Berginia and white-stripe grass
view towards the birdbath fountain
from foreground to background: cat mint, Russian sage, climbing roses, berry bushes. Spring bulbs to the L
Knot garden
veggie/cutting garden to L, peony/clematis border to R
Newton the apple tree with spring bulbs, berry bushes behind
view through hydrangea garden
a view of the shade garden
another view of the shade garden
young smoke bushes
a view of the circle gardens
another view of the circle garden
yet another view of the circle garden (shade garden beyond gazebo to the L)
eating-apple espalier with lipstick strawberries border the sunken garden
cutting and veggie garden
crab apple espalier--veggie/cutting garden to R
forsythia bushes with candy tuft, tree arch in background to R
The goldfish pond around here used to get disgusting in mid-summer. Several years of experiments have finally led to a method which works to keep the fish healthy and the pond not-disgusting. Here's the rundown on goldfish-keeping which I wish I'd been able to find when we first set out to have a goldfish pond in our Wisconsin garden.
THE TANK
The "pond" is a 1700 gallon circular tank, made of some black plastic-type material--polyethylene, I think. It is about the same size as the one at this link. It was chosen to be too deep and too steep-sided for raccoons to get at the fish. Raccoons do not jump in to catch fish, but rather, station themselves on the edge, or in very shallow water. In fact, our research indicated that shallower, or slope-sided pre-formed tanks sold to the unsuspecting as fish-ponds are known to landscape professionals as "raccoon dinner plates."
Another reason we chose a plastic tank is that, in Wisconsin, a concrete-sided pond would soon crack with our winter freeze-thaw cycle, while a metal tank might split its seams or rust if set into the ground.
Leveling the tank and setting it in the ground was quite a challenge. The hole it needed was too narrow and too deep to dig with a bob-cat, so the hole was dug by two (quite wonderful!) garden helpers, A.H. and W.O., with shovels. Luckily, our soil is that deep with no rocks. (The weather is a caution, the mosquitoes enormous, but yes, gardening in the Midwest also comes with certain advantages!)
A.H and W.O. did a fantastic job of digging the tank in level. After all these years of freeze-thaw cycles, there's still not even a quarter of an inch difference from side to side. Today, however, I believe I would call for a professional landscaper with a mini-excavator to dig a hole this big.
The tank is set about a foot above the ground level. This leaves enough of the tank below ground-level so there is unfrozen water, no matter how cold it gets. However, a thick layer of ice does form on top every year (I mean, this is Wisconsin...)
There is no gravel on the bottom--the tank is bare. This makes clean up much easier.
Around the protruding foot or so of the tank, a few layers of limestone wall-stone, maybe 6 or so inches high has been dry-laid. This matches exactly with the surrounding raised beds made of the same material. The rim of the tank is hung with limestone L-shaped veneer stone of the type mortared onto concrete-block chimneys and fences to make them look like they are made of field-stone. A local stone yard had these piled up (among the waist-high weeds and the wasp nests) in their returns/bargain area. The narrow end of the "L" is hooked over the rim, facing the water, the long end hangs nearly to the ground. Arranged this way, the veneer covers the (quite narrow) edge of the plastic tank, and hangs just below the edge of the dry-laid limestone, so that the entire foot of black plastic sticking up above ground level is completely hidden with stone.
THE FISH
Our pond was originally stocked with 12 goldfish, bought from Wal-Mart for a few cents apiece. Not having any idea what we were doing, we bought fan-tails for pretty. Later we read that fan-tails are not a good variety for outdoor ponds, because their tails are so fragile and hinder mobility. Well, what can I say? Many of the fish have survived for years (this is their fourth summer) and they've grown and had babies, which are fan-tails too. When we first saw the babies, we thought we were in for a population explosion but life outdoors is evidently hard: we now have 14 fish (although last summer, there were 16).
If we wanted to keep koi, I think we would have to be a lot more careful and particular, and that many of these tricks would not work. However, we are content with goldfish-keeping (and the fantails are truly beautiful fish!)
FILTRATION, AERATION and POND PLANTS
We installed the tank near an outdoor GFI outlet, as electrical filtration was our plan. Originally, we tried all kinds of filters, pressurized, in-pond, in ground, with built-in UV lights, with free-standing UV lights--you name it, we tried it, and boy was it expensive. We also tried growing pond-plants as natural aerators. Every combination of filter and light we tried, failed. The pond was scummy with algae, and the fish ate every part of every plant they could get at. So, we gave up trying to filter the water, and gave up on plants, too. Instead, we concentrated on aeration.
In our current system, air bubbles through the tank from a special "deep pond" aerator, which is hooked up, via a 12-line harness, to 12 airstones. The airstones are scattered all over the pond bottom. The pond surface bubbles strongly when the aerator is on. Every year, I mean to buy weighted air-line, but I always forget. In order that the air-line not float to the surface, the airstones and the harness are weighted with rocks.
The electrical outlet and the pump--which is not submersible-- are hidden under a "hollow rock" of the type designed to cover well-heads. The main trunk of the air-line is buried in the ground between the pump and pond-side. At that point, the air-line emerges from the ground, goes over the edge and disappears into the depths.
FISH FOOD:
We've tried many different kinds, and settled on Wardley's floating fish pellets. These seem to float long enough for the fish to eat them all, unlike flakes, which seem to start settling very quickly.
To feed the fish, we turn off the aerator--the fish have learned this means food is to follow shortly, and they come to the surface as soon as the aerator is unplugged. After waiting for the water to become still, we feed the fish 2-4 times, 10 or so minutes apart, a table-spoon or two in each feeding, the number of feedings depending on whether the fish seem hungry for more. (Test=whether the fish rise to the surface and start "gobbling" when we come near.) The 14 fish we have this year--the original survivors maybe 6" long and their various sized babies--cost several dollars a week in food.
ALGAE CONTROL with COLORANT
After trying various combinations of UV lights, and even chemicals, we were at wits' end to control algae. A visit to (the wonderful!!) Longwood Gardens gave us the solution. The lily-pond patio featured a display of water plants with goldfish. The water was dyed a dark black with "pond colorant." We adopted this approach for our fish pond--adding colorant to the water. The goldfish did not seem to mind. We have since researched this issue and learned that goldfish are adapted to live in muddy water, which is also opaque.
On the downside, the initial expense was a bit high--$30.00. On the upside, the jug we got, the only one at our local landscape supply, will probably last forever. The stuff is highly concentrated, and packaged in quantities meant to color natural lakes. Another downside: we can no longer see the fish except when they come to the surface at feeding time. The water surface is utterly opaque. The best upside: no algae. None.
WINTER UPKEEP
Although we originally brought the fish into the house for the winter, the fish got too darn big--too big even to keep over the winter in a 70 gallon stock-tank. With some trepidation, we started leaving them outside two winters ago, and they have now survived through two winters, including last year's never-ending polar-vortex event.
Once the weather gets very cold and the fish stop coming to the surface, we turn off the aerator and remove the airstone and line. Before the surface freezes over, we drop in a gas diffuser, called a"pond breather." This item does not keep a hole melted in the ice, rather, it draws water from below the freeze line and circulates it above the ice, then back down below the freeze line, allowing gas exchange to occur. It is designed to work with ice up to 15" thick. Sometimes, the ice (with snow on top) gets thicker than that. Then, the breather quits working for a while. However, even with our worst weather, this only lasts for a day or two. As soon as the weather improves marginally, the breather starts up again.
SPRING CLEANING
In the spring, we wait until all the ice is gone, and the fish start coming to the surface. This is also when we start feeding the fish. Two or so weeks later, when the fish are active all day long and eating regularly, all the fish are netted and put into a stock tank with an aquarium-sized aerator going--this is enough for the 1/2 day that the fish will be in the stock tank. This is the only time of the year we get see the fish individually and close-up, to count them, to see who survived and how many new baby fish there are.
Once the fish are out, we pump the tank out using a submersible self-priming sump-pump designed to handle small solids. The water is pumped into a nearby bog garden. With the water out, we clean the tank of all the leaves that fell in during the late fall and winter. The fish-muck at the bottom we carefully dole out among the plants in the surrounding perennial gardens. Cleanup is a two person job, one to climb the ladder down into the tank (wearing hi-top rain boots) carrying a broom, snow-shovel and a pail, and another person to steady the ladder and receive the muck (swept with the broom into the shovel, then transferred from the shovel to the pail) which remains after the sump-pump has gotten out all it can.
At this time, we also re-lay the airline and the airstones. Most of the airstones can be reused, but the air-line has to be completely replaced with new.
REFILL
The tank is then refilled with city water from the hose-end. It is conditioned with whatever de-chlorinator chemicals the local big-box store is carrying. We also add barley extract. We put the fish directly into this fresh new water. They seem very happy to go--not at all discombobulated from the change of water.
SUMMER MAINTENANCE
Despite the aeration and the lack of algae due to the colorant, the pond water gets thick with particulates in the summer. The fish are large and active, and eat a lot of fish-food. So, several times a summer, we pump out 1/2 the water and refill with fresh hose water. The pumped out water (with all its fishy nutrients!) goes to water the plants in perennial gardens and the bog garden. When we start running fresh water in with a hose, we also add the de-chlorinator chemical--the chemical is added over maybe a couple of minutes to the stream of running water.
The water is pumped out once in June, twice in July and twice in August--that's the theory, anyhow.
FALL
A bird net is arched over the tank in fall, in an attempt to keep leaves out of the water. The net is held off the surface with PVC water-supply pipe. This pipe, which is very flexible, is made into arches by slipping it over 18" long rebar pounded in around the pond-edge. The 1" square bird-netting is laid over these arches, the L-shaped veneer stone hanging from the tank-edge weights the edges to keep it taut.
FENCING
There are no small children around here, and no legal requirement to fence a decorative fish pond. We thought that installing the pond with a good foot or so sticking out of the ground, and the water surface so far above the ground surface, would prevent anyone falling in. This worked well in general, until one day, a friend came over with her dog. The dog jumped in and paddled around very happily, but was unable to get out again. That dog is now a constant visitor, so we put up a chicken-wire fence--ugly, ugly, ugly. I have to admit that fencing is one part of the pond-keeping art that we still have to figure out. We are cogitating on it, though, so hopefully, there will be another post (in a year or four) saying what we did to get rid of the chicken wire.
IS IT WORTH IT?
It certainly was expensive to try out all the different filter systems. Also, it something of a disappointment that there are no plants: the original vision was to have water plants in the pond, but the fish were voracious and ate every plant we tried, from water lilies to floating plants, to little floating plant-islands.
Yet, despite the plant-less nature of the pond, I think it does add an element of liveliness with its mysterious bubbling black surface, and the occasional flashes of gold as the fish come to the surface. At feeding time, the fish are plainly visible at the surface, and having the pond does add a focus to garden walks. In the end, although it was very expensive to figure it all out, and although the pond isn't quite what I first imagined, I do think the answer has to be "yes," it is worth having a pond.
Posts dated October 14 and October 24, 2012 detailed an experiment of bringing peppers into the house for the winter. I cut back existing Gypsy pepper plants to a small root and a bare stem, then plant these in the house.
The plants took root, and actually grew in the house all winter, under plant lights. When the time came to plant these out, the plants grew anew and made peppers a second year. Sounds like a successful project, no?
Well, no. The biggest problem: these plants were plagued all winter with ever-increasing numbers of whiteflies. When the plants came into the house, whitefly eggs came too, probably on the small rootball of soil left at the bottom of each plant.
If I had to do this again, I would trim the plants back to a small root and a bare stem, same as before. However, this time, I'd wash all the dirt off the roots and even soak the bare assembly in water, maybe even with a drop or two of bleach in the water, maybe as long as overnight.
Yet, even knowing what to try differently next time, it's unlikely that I'd try overwintering peppers again. For one thing, it's not clear that the the plants would survive the proposed trimming and soaking. But more importantly, the effort was not worth the end result.
Although in the spring of 2013, these plants made peppers before the 2013 seedling pepper plants did, the 2013 seedling plants soon outstripped the overwintered peppers in production. From the middle of the summer of 2013 on, the overwintered plants lost vitality. They hung on, grimly, but the younger plants did far better. Plus, the overwintered plants only beat out the 2013 seedling plants by a week or so in the matter of pepper production. When you add into the equation, the amount of electricity and care to bring overwintered plants through a (long) Wisconsin winter, starting new seedlings makes more sense.
Going around the garden, it is my eyes which see the volunteer bluebells, but it is my friend J's mother (a woman I never met) who chimes in that "those damned bluebells" ought to be pulled out, for what kind of gardener allows a volunteer such pride of place? Several years ago, J told me this about her mother when I was admiring my bluebells. Ever since, for the several weeks a year between blooming and deadheading, every time I see a bluebell, J's mother and I argue whether her approach can possibly be correct.
Harold Nicholson--the male half of the Sissinghurst Castle team--said that the famous garden was "made by doing impractical things we could not afford at the wrong time of year." Harold and I get a good chuckle out of that as we walk around my garden in spring together, looking at all of last year's projects which didn't quite make it through the winter. Such as...that time when the nice fluffy very expensive sterile-medium top-dressing was put down just before the great tree-seed deluge. Not to mention...the time when the fishpond water got changed just as the fry were hatching out. Impractical, expensive, mistimed? You and me both, Harold, buddy.
Stopping by my co-op the other day to do a spot of shopping, I showed Henry Mitchell the bindweed growing in the hedge outlining the driveway. "Bindweed," said he. "Gardeners have been known to move away to avoid bindweed!" So Henry and I went in and told the nice young person behind the counter that it would be great if the bindweed were removed from the hedge before the weed went to seed. Had Henry been there in the flesh, he might have impressed that young person more than I did: she looked at me as if I had two heads. Which, of course I did have: mine and Henry's.
I haven't had the heart to go back and see if the bindweed has been removed (to tell the truth, Henry and I pulled most of it before we ever went in--just the ones deep under the hedge roots kept avoiding us). Yet the way Henry keeps fussing about the bindweed, page after page--the immortal bindweed, so discouraging to gardeners! Henry says when I go and take a look, I should put a pair of knee pads and some gardening gloves in the car, just in case.
A previous post (September 14, 2012) described how I established a little secondary path with no digging at all, directly over existing sod, by using cardboard, newspaper and sterile planting medium (pro-mix, wood bark) dotted with pavers, edged with limestone blocks and planted with Angelina sedum.
The path as first established in 2012-note sprigs of Angelina sedum in sterile planting medium
The path today (two years later.)* The sedum is fully established, and has lived through two winters.
This idea worked very well. As predicted, a few weed seeds have blown in, and a few blades of grass poked up along the edges (in the cracks between where the newspaper/cardboard was laid and the limestone blocks which made up the path). However, also as predicted, the sterile medium made pulling the weeds out very easy.
ESTABLISHING A PERENNIAL BED USING STERILE MEDIUM
Based on the success of the path, this year, I established a new no-dig bed using the same system: composting the grass under cardboard, topped with a sterile planting medium and edged with limestone blocks. This time, I planted forsythia bushes with an understory of perennials, as well as sedum.
As a first step, I closely mowed the grass under where the bed was to be. Next, I loosened the soil for the forsythia bushes using my favorite digging tool: a pick-ax** Next, I laid cardboard down, then laid limestone edging, same as in the sedum path, then laid pro-mix on that and heavily watered the entire assembly. The next day, I easily made holes in the still-wet cardboard over where the loosened native soil was, then planted the bushes in the ground, through these holes in the cardboard, just as I would do if planting in open ground. The native soil and promix were somewhat mixed together, but the roots are mainly in the underlying soil, with the promix (which is, at most 2-3 inches deep) is mainly around the crown. (In the below photos, the bushes are surrounded by chicken wire to keep rabbits from gnawing the new plants).
Although the bush roots are in contact with the native soil through the holes in the cardboard, the perennials are simply planted into the pro-mix. A capful of time-release osmocote with minerals, and a teaspoon of organic fertilizer was mixed into the promix by each perennial, as promix has essentially no nutrition in it. As the underlying cardboard rots away, the perennials' roots will work their way through (the perennials will show they've reached that point by taking off in growth--this will probably occur next spring). In the meanwhile, daily or every-other-day watering is needed, since pro-mix dries out easily. Oh, I should mention that the pro-mix is covered with cocoa-hulls, as was the sedum pathway.
Using sterile planting medium in conjuction with cardboard and an edging makes it easy to create no-dig paths and beds directly over existing sod. The next post in this series addresses a different variation on this theme: top-dressing an existing bed with sterile planting medium. I'll put a link here when that post goes live.
--TK
*The pink flowers on the left belong to "lipstick" alpine strawberry plants, a ground cover on the adjoining flower bed.
** Pick ax: much easier than a shovel for loosening soil. Using the ax, not the pick, swing overhead to chop straight down, taking a wide stance. Make others stand back--WAY the heck away from you. Make sure, too, that the ax head is seated before each swing, and that there is nothing overhead (tree branch) to tangle the swing of the ax. Search you-tube or ask someone who knows the correct use of a pick ax if at all unsure--a minimal goal for successful gardening is to go to bed with your skull intact, and the same number of toes as you woke up with.
Much delayed, here is a post on the continuing saga of Japanese beetles in my Wisconsin garden (part 1, written in 2011, is here).
SURROUND WP
In 2011, I had just planted some apple trees--very young, very tender, very expensive. The best Japanese Beetle control I found for these valuable plants was an item called Surround WP. The WP stands for "wettable powder," and Surround is the brand name for a type of kaolin clay which has been specially treated to make it apply-able to growing plants. Kaolin clay is simply a natural type of soil--a clay soil--which is composed of very fine particles (as are all clays) and is white in color. The Surround is mixed with water in the instructed amounts, and then the milk-like result is applied --either by spray or by dipping--on whatever you want to protect. In my case, the young apple trees were being murdered by the Japanese beetles. I've hunted through my photos, but can't seem to find the ones I took of the trees when treated, so here's a link to a photo found on the web--other than being much smaller, my trees looked identical once treated--dusty and gray, yet unquestionably alive and un-eaten.
As the tree grows and puts out new leaves, these have to be protected, so even with no rain, you have to spray regularly.
It would only really work on quite small trees--the challenge of covering a full-gown birch or elm (JB favorites) with a powdery coating on every leaf would be impossible to meet.
If you miss, the beetles will find that spot.
You have to have the correct kind of sprayer.
My first sprayer, not rated for wettable powders, clogged easily, then wore out. Even with a sprayer rated for wettable powders (as my second sprayer was) the Surround and water mix has to be kept agitated. Commercial operations evidently get around this by using additives to keep the powder suspended but I had no access to such things, and had to keep stopping and shaking up the tank. Also along these lines, you absolutely HAVE to clean out the entire mechanism with plain water (and spray, and spray, and spray until the water comes out clean) or the Surround will clump up and ruin the sprayer.
Bottom line: the Surround WP did protect my apple trees, even in the face of massive JB pressure, when nothing else on the face of the earth seemed to do the trick, but you have to keep it up. Without the Surround, the little apple trees would surely have died in their first season.
TINCTURE OF TIME
This summer (2014) the beetles have not been much of a problem (not yet, anyhow). I believe this is for several reasons. The other day, I saw a flock of starlings working over some rose bushes, tearing at the petals. I've never seen that behavior before in birds. I finally figured out that the birds, now with enough years of exposure, have learned to eat JB's. Further, the very harsh winter we just had (polar vortexes and all that) have perhaps put a dent in the JB numbers. And, I think that once Wisconsin was no longer on the leading edge of the invasion, the numbers of beetles settled down. The original invasion was very like a biblical plague, but the numbers now are much more manageable. In other words, just wait, and the passage of time tends to smooth out most problems. (Although, if you have found this post because you are suddenly overwhelmed with JB's for the first time, the sad thing is that we are talking years, not weeks or months, until the situation simmers down.)
TRAP CROPS--Fine-line buckthorn bushes
The roses are staying: that's non-negotiable. Yet, I've grubbed out pretty nearly every other major JB attractant (like guara--which was pathetically attacked) and relocated to the shade most other JB faves (such as rhubarb).
In the full-sun perennial beds live three fine-line buckthorns,* which are also a major attractant. I didn't grub them out because I thought of trying a systemic insecticide. Now, I don't much believe in chemical fixes, but my thinking was that my buckthorn don't flower (or at least, haven't yet) and the only way that a systemic insecticide would get loose into the ecosystem was if something was actually eating the plants. In that case, I rationalized, the destructive creatures would get what they deserve (actually, rationality didn't much enter into it: "die, beetles, die!" was a lot closer to my exact thought).
However, daydreaming about this solution was one thing, and reality another: I never could bring myself to actually apply such a chemical in the garden here. So, the buckthorns just got eaten to a tatter every year.
This year it finally occurred to me that the buckthorns are acting as a trap-crop. The poor bushes get set back so far that they will never grow to full height, and they look awful: mangy and bitten. Yet, being all-green (no flowers) even with a heavy load of JB's, they look less mangy than did a flowering attractant, such as the guara. And the thing is, although the buckthorn are loaded with JB's, other plants growing nearby, even roses, have a much lesser load. See for yourself: these two photos, taken one minute apart, are of plants located quite near one another.
Buckthorn as a trap crop: Japanese Beetles on buckthorn
The buckthorn is acting as a trap crop, so there is little Japanese Beetle pressure on roses growing nearby
Putting two and two together (for, as Gandalf said about Butterbur, even slow thinkers will see through a brick wall in time) I've finally determined to stop fantasizing about rubbing out the JB's on the buckthorn via poisonous insecticides, while also accepting that the buckthorns must not be grubbed out, but are to remain: a trap crop sacrificed to protect other, more valuable, flowering plants.
YMMV: a different trap crop might work better in your area. The penny-drop is not that buckthorn is a good trap crop for roses (although that combo is working here in this garden) but that a plant much-infested with JB's might be seen as a good thing, if it is reducing pressure on other plants.
--TK
* Although buckthorn is said to be invasive in certain areas, the "fine-line" variety I planted is said to be non-invasive (click linky above for description).
